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Visit the 'Paris of Latin America'
Strolling at Puerto Madero was one of my best moments of my life. As I sipped Submarinos coffee, with dollops of chocolate in it, I wondered how far across the globe I had actually traveled! I enjoyed the snapshot of ancient-vessels turned museums in the backdrop of the beautiful bridge, Puente De La Mujers. Truly my journey was worth every minute of this enchanting city! With a map in my hand I decided to check out the city all by myself. I was shopping at a kiosk when I heard something familiar, and very, very Indian. It was a Spanish folk-song, in a tune unmistakably from the song Kaho Na Kaho...’ from Murder! After shopping, I walked down to 9 de Julio Avenue- the widest avenue in the world, and reached its intersection with Corrientes Avenue to see the Obelisk, a magnificent pillar with a rectangular cross section tapering to a pyramidal top. At Corrientes I made it a point to the visit as many coffee bars as I could, to feel the buzz of Buenos Aires. Downtown I saw historic buildings like the Cablido, President's House, embassies and of course Casa Da Rosada, where Eva Peron once waved to her subjects. Within walking distance is the San Marino Square too, with its huge bronze statutes. Buenos Aires is the tango capital of the world and I had a look at San Telmo, its tango district, the very next day. Tango developed as a dance form at the end of the 19th century on the banks of the La Plata river. Many of the words originate from the Rioplatenese dialect, a patois developed by prisoners to communicate in secret. I bought a ticket to enter Las Argentinas, a tango bar to see bejeweled women and smart gentlemen of all ages doing the sensual tango. Of course, I tangoed too! At San Telmo, one can also appreciate old world architecture at its best. Once occupied by the affluent, the inhabitants moved to North near Recoleta after the yellow fever threat in 1871. Once at the Orthodox Russian Church and La Defensa Alley- I found a perfect opportunity to relive the colonial Buenos Aires. Recoleta is a French style, elegant locality in Buenos Aires. It is also the place where the rich and famous rest — in peace. The cemetery complex with ornate burial grounds is something to see and that’s what I did. In particular I visited Eva Peron's grave. According to my local guide, it would take at least $40,000 to be buried in style at Recoleta! I noticed a lot of cats around, and she told me that there is a club of ladies-who-lunch, who come to feed these abandoned cats at Recoleta. Well, to each his (or her) own! In any case, theirs meows added to the “atmosphere” as the place is replete with spooky and heroic tales. Just next door I saw a historic church called Iglesia del Pillar built in 1706, a landmark of the district, with beautiful murals and grand statues. Belgrano is one of the many residential neighborhoods of Buenos Aires with quiet tree-lined streets and architectural gems that make it one of the most romantic spots in the city. The 'Barrancas do Belgrano' or slopes add to its dreamy appeal, where many people come to laze around. A famous landscape artist Carlos Thays designed Belgrano as well as the botanical gardens. I visited another famous harbor neighborhood of La Boca next morning. At Caminito, I strolled around the artistic street with houses painted in multiple hues, an outdoor art gallery by the famous painter Quinquela Martin. Attractive crafts shops and restaurants surround the public walk. The place for all gourmets and I wasn’t surprised at a huge billboard in English that boldly proclaimed ‘You'll Travel round the Earth to Try the World's Best Steak at Argentina. After reading it, I felt less guilty. Parillas, or grill restaurants, are everywhere and take pride in the quality of their meat. The other toothsome delights are chorizo (spicy sausages) and empanadas (meat dumplings). Desserts often contain dulce de leche (milk, sugar and vanilla boiled down to a thick sauce) and I brought back packets of Alfajores — cookies filled with dulce de leche and coated in chocolate! The residents of Buenos Aires are called Portenos, and are ssentially of European descent, so cafes are almost second home to them. Just walk in and be prepared to meet interesting people. Alternatively, cafes near the riverside provide the perfect setting for a romantic afternoon brunch. I found Argentinese warm and always willing to help. Spanish is widely spoken but I could get around with a map and elementary Spanish. If I had just had more time to spend there, I would have loved to see Iguasa waterfalls, Bariloche and Patagonia. If only! Leaving the city was a wrench, for in my week’s stay there I had come to love its cosmopolitan air and never-say-die spirit. I heard from the locals that the Spanish and Italians conquered the city many times over. I think that fact is slightly twisted — I think they were captivated by the beauty and charm of this part of the globe and simply didn’t want to go back! |
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BUENOS AIRES (Yavnika
Khanna, Times News) March 9, 2006 — Buenos Aires is a breezy city,
brimming with the passion of Tango. Buenos Aires is often referred to as
the ‘Paris of Latin America; — having experienced the magic first hand,
I came back mesmerized. I felt the presence of amor all around the city
facades, European-style buildings and Gothic churches. 
